Garden Gate

Would you rather listen than read?  Click on the audio file below.

At first glance, you might barely notice the gate. Take a moment to appreciate its ornate design, iron strap hinges, and large padlock. Look carefully at the stout fence on either side of this portal. Together, these elements frame the entrance to this re-creation of the Masons’ garden. These imposing barriers had both aesthetic value and practical functions. 

People in the 18th century cared a lot about wealth and status.Only well-to-do planters could afford this kind of gate and fence.  The big iron hinges, decorative arrangement of boards, and elegant pieces at the top all turn this gate from a purely functional break in the fence to a fashionable ornament on the landscape. The smooth painted wooden boards of the fence continue the impression of richness and style.    

Elsewhere on the landscape—in the less prominent parts of Gunston Hall plantation and on the land of less wealthy farmers, fences were much more plain.  Split rails and woven saplings cost less and were often easier to turn into a fence. Since 18th-century Virginians let their cows, sheep, and pigs run free on their property, farmers and plantation owners used fences and other physical barriers to protect their vegetables, fruit, and flowers.  In addition, fences kept out common pests like rabbits and deer. 

Together, the garden fence and gate offered ways to control which people went into the garden, reinforcing the social hierarchy of the day. Only members of the Mason family and their visitors had the privilege of free access into the garden. Most paid servants and enslaved workers entered this space only when they were required  to tend to the crops and ornamentals. Once inside the garden, people were in an oasis of beauty. Plus, the fence shielded garden visitors from the labor in the kitchen yard, barns, and other workspaces.

What will you learn about next?

Herbs

Common Name Botanical Name
Basil Ocinum basilicum
Borage Borago officinalis
Chives Allium schoenoprasum
Clary Sage Salvia sclarea
Dill Anethum graveolens
English lavender Lavandula angustifolia
Fennel Foeniculum vulgare
Oregano Origanum vulgare
Rosemary Rosemarinus officinalis
Sage Salvia officinalis
Thyme Thymus vulgaris

Berries

Common Name Botanical Name
Red Currant Ribes rubrum
Strawberry Fragaria x ananassa
Raspberry Rubus idaeus
Bilberry Vaccinium myrtilis
Blackberry Rubus fruticosus
Asparagus Asparagus officinalis
Rhubarb Rheum x hybridum

Vegetables

Common Name Botanical Name
Beans Phaseolus sp.
Cucumbers Cucumis sativus
Melons Cucumis melo
Okra Abelmoschus esculentus
Peppers Capsicum anuum
Summer Squash Cucurbita pepo
Sweet Potato Ipomoea batatas
Watermelon Citrullus lanatus
Winter Squash Cucurbita moschata
Beets Beta vulgaris
Carrots Daucus carota
Endive Cichorium endivia
Fava beans Vicia faba
Mustard Greens Brassica juncea
Parsnips Pastinaca sativa
Peas Pisum sativum
Rutabagas Brassica napus
Salsify Tragopogon porrifolius
Spinach Spinacea oleracea
Turnips Brassica rapa var. rapa
Radishes Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus
Potatoes Solanum tuberosum
Lettuce Lactuca sativa
Broccoli Brassica oleracea
Cabbage Brassica oleracea
Cauliflower Brassica oleracea
Kale Brassica oleracea
Artichokes Cynara cardunculusvar. scolymus
Leeks Allium ampeloprasum
Onions Allium cepa
Garlic Allium sativum
Asparagus Asparagus officinalis
Swiss Chard Beta vulgaris var. cicla
Rhubarb Rheum x hybridum
Horseradish Armoracia rusticana

Fruiting Trees

Common Name Botanical Name
Quince Cydonia oblonga
Hewes Crab apple Malus sp.
Newtown Pippin apple Malus sp.
Red Streak apple Malus sp.
Buckingham apple Malus sp.
Drap d’Or apple Malus sp.
Fameuse apple Malus sp.
Golden Pearmain apple Malus sp.
Gravenstein apple Malus sp.
McIntosh apple Malus sp.
Pomme Gris apple Malus sp.
Baldwin apple Malus sp.
Rhode Island Greening apple Malus sp.
Roxbury Russet apple Malus sp.
Summer Rambo apple Malus sp.
Winesap apple Malus sp.
Yellow Bellflower apple Malus sp.
Montmorency cherry Prunus cerasus
Indian Bloodcling Peach Prunus persica
Burford pear Pyrus communis
Flemish beauty pear Pyrus communis
Seckel pear Pyrus communis
Bartlett pear Pyrus communis
Damson plum Prunus domestica
Green Gage plum Prunus domestica
Rene Claude Doree plum Prunus domestica
Mirabelle plum Prunus domestica

Roses and Shrubs

Common Name Botanical Name
White Rose of York Rosa x alba ‘Semi-Plena’
Damask rose Rosa x damascena
Eglantine Rose Rosa rubiginosa
Rosa Mundi Rosa gallica var. officinalis ‘Versicolor’
Sulphur rose Rosa hemisphaerica
Green Beauty boxwood Buxus microphylla var. japonica
Fothergilla Fothergilla gardenii
Persian Lilac Syringa x persica
Summersweet Clethra alnifolia

Bulbs

Common Name Botanical Name
Absalon tulip Tulipa sp.
Blue Flag tulip Tulipa sp.
Lady Tulip Tulipa clusiana
Duc van Tol Red and Yellow tulip Tulipa sp.
Flaming Parrot tulip Tulipa sp.
Golden Standard tulip Tulipa sp.
Duc van Tol Rose tulip Tulipa sp.
Helmar tulip Tulipa sp.
Keizerskroon tulip Tulipa sp.
Lac van Rijn tulip Tulipa sp.
Tournesol tulip Tulipa sp.
Red Hue tulip Tulipa viridiflora
Silver Standard tulip Tulipa sp.
Florentine tulip Tulipa sylvestris
Wapen van Leiden tulip Tulipa sp.
Butter and Eggs daffodil Narcissus incomparabilis aurantius plenus
Early Louisiana daffodil Narcissus jonquilla
Hoop Petticoat daffodil Narcissus bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’
Swan’s Neck daffodil Narcissus moschatus
Maximus daffodil Narcissus hispanicus
Odorus Flore Pleno daffodil Narcissus odorus flore pleno
Pheasant’s Eye daffodil Narcissus poeticus
Seventeen Sisters daffodil Narcissus tazetta ‘Avalanche’
Twin Sisters daffodil Narcissus x medioluteus
Van Sion daffodil Narcissus telamonius plenus
Fall daffodil Sternbergia lutea
Campernelle daffodil Narcissus x odorus
Double Campernelle daffodil Narcissus x odorus ‘Plenus’
Alpine squill Scilla bifolia
Byzantine gladiolus Gladiolus communis
Cloth of Gold crocus Crocus angustifolius
Crown Imperial Fritillaria imperialis ‘Rubra Maxima’
Neapolitan garlic Allium neapolitanum
Drumstick allium Allium sphaerocephalon
English bluebells Hyacinthoides non-scripta
Persian fritillary Fritillaria persica
Roman hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis var. albulus
Snake’s Head fritillary Fritillaria meleagris
Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis
Winter aconite Eranthis hyemalis
Summer snowflake Leucojum aestivum
Cyclamen Cyclamen coum
Spanish bluebells Hyacinthoides hispanica
Southern Grape hyacinth Muscari neglectum
American Turk’s-cap lily Lilium superbum

0

0

Perennials

Common Name Botanical Name
Monkshood Aconitum napellus
Hollyhock Alcea rosea
Nora Barlow Columbine Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’
Wild Columbine Aquilegia canadensis
Butterfly Weed Asclepias tuberosa
Baptisia Baptisia australis
Canterbury Bells Campanula medium
Red valerian Centranthus ruber
Clove Pinks Dianthus caryophyllus
China pinks Dianthus chinensis
Gas Plant Dictamnus albus
Foxglove Digitalis purpurea
Purple Coneflower Echinacea purpurea
Globe thistle Echinops ritro
Joe Pye Weed Eutrochium maculatum
Queen of the Prairie Filipendula rubra
Sneezeweed Helenium autumnale
Yellow daylily Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus
Dame’s rocket Hesperis matronalis
Swamp Rose Mallow Hibiscus Moscheutos
Blackberry Lily Iris domestica
Bearded Iris Iris germanica
Siberian Iris Iris sibirica
Blue Flag Iris Iris versicolor
Candytuft Iberis Semmervirens
Lavatera Lavatera sp.
Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis
Maltese Cross Lychnis chalcedonica
Bee Balm Monarda didyma
Bergamot Monarda fistulosa
Peony Paeonia officinalis
Oriental Poppy Papaver orientale
Woodland phlox Phlox divaricata
Garden Phlox Phlox paniculata
Obedient Plant Physostegia virginiana
Primula auricula Primula auricula
Cowslip Primula veris
Pulmonaria Pulmonaria officinalis
Black Eyed Susan Rudbeckia fulgida
Rose Campion Silene coronaria
Lamb’s Ears Stachys byzantina
Betony Stachys officinalis
New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae
Ironweed Vernonia noveboracencis

Garden FAQs

Gunston Hall’s expert staff, consultants, and volunteers have answered some of the frequently asked questions about the Riverside Garden Project. (Don’t see your answer here? Ask us via email.)

 

Q: How long will it take to finish the riverside garden?

A: Gunston Hall’s garden restoration project is the culmination of decades of archaeology and research  and more than a year of onsite construction work. The garden will change rapidly over the next two years as we work to repopulate it with the types of plants here during the 1770s and 1780s. It is likely George Mason’s garden took decades to mature. Our garden will be no different. Visit regularly to watch the garden grow!

Q: What is a cover crop and why are you  growing it?

A: A cover crop is any crop grown for non-commercial purposes, and intended to improve the soil. Good soils take a long time to build. Plus, the long-time construction required heavy equipment which compressed our soils. To help prepare the soil for our historic plantings, the construction crew sowed a cover crop of turnips in the spring. Turnips are fast growing and outcompete weeds. They grow deep taproots which loosen up the soil. More aerated soil will benefit everything we plant, as the improved dirt will allow  roots to grow much faster than they would in compacted soil.. 

We had a lot of turnips!  Staff cooked some, using both historic and modern recipes.  And we donated hundreds to local food banks.Then we tilled into the soil the remainder.  The turnips will improve the soil quality by to adding organic matter and nutrients as they decompose. Now we have a new cover crop.  We are currently growing a black-eyed peas, sunflowers, and oats. This mixture provides a variety of benefits; each crop contributes something different. Black-eyed peas fix nitrogen into soil. Sunflowers help loosen soil while providing food for pollinators. Oats produce numerous leaves which suppress weeds. Together these cover crops will ensure our soil is ready for 2021.  

Q: How big is Gunston Hall’s garden?

A: Gunston Hall’s fence encloses roughly one acre. The combined square footage of each garden bed equals 41,145 square feet. (Just over nine tenths of an acre.) These plots are a food source in disguise as a pleasure garden.  The flowering borders that surround each bed hide the garden’s ability to produce a lot of food. Over three fourths of the garden’s total space grew fruits, vegetables, herbs, and other important natural products for the Mason family. 

Q: Who did the gardening at Gunston Hall?

A: George Mason designed and managed his garden, but it is unlikely he did any of the physical labor. Enslaved gardeners, and possibly hired or indentured servants, provided most of the work needed to keep the riverside garden beautiful. To learn more about how the members of the enslaved community at Gunston Hall shared the garden space click here.

Q: How many people could Gunston Hall’s garden feed?

A: George Mason expected his garden to adequately feed his growing family and extended family, which depending on the year counted as many as 14 people. There was also enough bounty to ensure the family’s guests had enough to eat. The garden likely provided an abundance of fruits and vegetables throughout most of the year. This food source supplemented staple grains like wheat and corn, the Masons’ livestock, local fish stock, game the Mason’s could access on their substantial property, and  imported goods from around the world. 

Q: How did the garden provide food during the winter?

A: By combining season extension, food preservation, and food storage strategies, the Masons had access to fruits and vegetables most of the year   It is likely that the Mason family and the gardeners they hired or held in bondage were well versed in stretching their food supply during the winter. A variety of crops, like cabbage, beets, or salad greens may have survived as late as October or November and longer if the gardeners protected the plants with glass bell jars. A host of crops were pickled in vinegar, while herbs, sweet potatoes, onions, and garlic were dried or cured before storing. Still others, like winter squash and potatoes, were stored in the Mason’s root cellar. These crops kept for several months before spoiling. 

Q: How did George Mason acquire such a wide variety of plants?

A: George Mason seldom traveled far from Gunston Hall, but his position as a wealthy planter connected him to other planter-gardeners in Virginia and Maryland, some of whom had traveled more extensively. Many of these individuals swapped seeds out of habit, while others were involved in emerging horticultural enterprises. Mason also had contact with the Bartram family, early pioneers in American horticulture. In the early 18th century John Bartram travelled across the colonies collecting different plants to grow in his nursery. George Mason, while attending the Constitutional Convention in Philadelphia, met members of the Bartram family at their nursery just outside of town. Perhaps Mason and John Bartram exchanged seeds.  We certainly can imagine that they had plenty to discuss in their mutual horticultural interests. 

Making Rosemary Stem Cuttings

Duration: 30-45 minutes to set up (plus 1-2 minutes daily for 30-60 days)
Recommended Ages: Suitable for ages 7-11 with minimal adult assistance and age 12 and older without supervision.
Description: Garden at home by growing rosemary from stem cuttings, and learn how cuttings were important in the 18th century. Over the next few months, your cuttings will develop roots and become new plantlets.

Colonial Gardening

While we often think of starting new plants from seeds, we should not overlook propagating—or making new plants—from cuttings of existing specimens.  The process of taking stem cuttings is especially useful when you need to be certain of what you are growing. Some plants are unpredictable when they start as seeds. For example, an apple grown from seed may be sour, mealy, tart, sweet, or bitter, no matter what was the taste of the original apple. In these situations, using seeds is a bit like rolling a handful of dice! Gardeners almost always reproduce apples, peaches, pears, and other fruits from cuttings. Like identical twins, a plant grown by cutting is genetically the same as the mother plant. 

Fruit trees were among the first crops planted by English settlers in the new world. Colonial planters understood the best way to reproduce fruit trees, and they often used cuttings. Almost two centuries after the first Europeans arrived in Jamestown, Virginians were still using this technique.

Staff helped guests use the same process at Gunston Hall to help preserve the genetic material of the site’s historic boxwoods.

George Mason wrote in 1787 to his son John requesting “a few young Trees of the best kinds of Pears and Plums, by any Ship to Potomack River. . .also a few young Grape Vines, of good kinds; the roots should be carefully covered with Moss, or some such thing, or set in Boxes of Earth.” Colonists preferred cuttings, or small trees grown from cuttings, for two reasons. Cuttings helped colonists be sure that the variety they received was desirable. Only the most wealthy colonists could afford to purchase trees–rather than small cuttings–shipped across the ocean. 

Cuttings were also used over shorter distances. George Washington recorded in his diary in April of 1785, “[Colonel] Mason. . . sent me some young shoots of the Persian Jessamine & Guilder Rose.” This type of exchange was common in this time period. George Mason and others sought rare plants because they enjoyed gardening, used their gardens to display their status, and hoped to improve the resources available to American farmers.

Discover the basics of growing plants from cuttings and build your 18th century skills! Making new plants from cuttings is exciting.

What do you need

Plant Materials: Look around for what is available.  For example, can you find some live rosemary, lavender, sage, or fig. Fresh rosemary cuttings sold at grocery stores may also be used.
Soil: If possible, open a new bag of potting mix. A bag you have already opened but recently purchased is ok, too. Soil mixes labeled for potting are generally better than topsoil or soil dug in your backyard. Potting mixes better avoid compacting over time and are easier for new roots to work into. If your cuttings rot, it is possible the mix is carrying soil borne diseases. Clean the vessel with soap and water. The 1 to 2 cups of soil used for cutting propagation can be microwaved for 90 seconds in a microwave safe container, allowed to cool, and then returned to the vessel.
Small Pot or Container: Your cuttings will be 4 to 6 inches. Their containers may be small. A small pot 3 or 4 inches deep, a 6 oz mason jar, or a coffee cup is about the size you are looking for. If you use something without a hole or two  in the bottom, add some rocks or broken crockery to create a small drainage pace–still, be extra mindful about over-watering. You may put 2 to 3 cuttings in one pot.
Scissors or knife
Water
Spray Bottle: This item is optional.
Auxin or Rooting Aid: This is an optional ingredient. This method gets good results without plant hormones, but the powders are effective in speeding up rooting.
Paper and Pencil: For notes, sketches, and questions

1. Prepare your container by loosely filling it with soil and moistening the dirt with water. If your soil is really dry, you may find it helpful to pour some of it  in a bowl, add water, and mix it with your hands. It is easy to make the mistake of just wetting the surface while the bottom stays totally dry–this will kill your cutting!

2. Find a healthy rosemary plant, or another plant from that materials list above.  If you want to experiment with another plant, that is fine, too. If you do not have access to a plant ask around. Rosemary commonly overwinters in Virginia. Perhaps a neighbor can pass a piece of a healthy plant over the fence.  If you are not under a stay-at-home order, check with friends or family. They may have rosemary or other plants to try, and they might be happy to exchange a few cuttings for some new plants in a month or two.

3. Use scissors to cut 4 to 6 inch long cuttings. Your cuttings should include some of the brown woody part of the stem and some new growth at the opposite end (top of the cutting). The woody part will look light brown and appear bark-like.

4. Next you will remove all the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Plants breathe through their leaves. As they breathe, water moves from the roots and out of the plant in a process called transpiration. If too much water leaves, then the cutting will dry out and die. By removing leaves we are slowing the plant’s water loss.

Step 4
Step 5

5. Using your scissors or a knife gently scrape the top layer of bark from the bottom inch of your cutting. This ‘wound’ helps the plant grow roots more quickly by helping it jump start its healing process. This wound and healing process works in a way that is similar to the way exercise helps us get stronger. The exercise ‘wounds’ our muscles making us feel sore or tired, but as we recover we become stronger than before. Cuttings build new roots, stems, and leaves as they recover.

6. Slide your prepared cutting into your container. Make sure the “wound” is underneath soil. Dirt that is to 3 inches will usually work well for this type of cutting. Place your container where you will see it everyday that is warm and receives some sun.

7. Take notes. Include the date. Make columns, so you can record when you watered your cuttings.

8. Check your container daily. Make sure the soil remains moist at all levels. You can check with a toothpick and visually. Insert a toothpick. It should feel wet when you pull it out. Wet soil will also appear darker. Overtime, it will become easy to tell if the cuttings need water. If it is too dry your cutting will not root. If you notice lots of algae it is too wet. Imagine the soil is a slightly wet sponge, from which  you can squeeze only a few drops of water. A spray bottle may be helpful at this step.

9. Once a week gently tug on your cuttings. If they come up easily take a look. You may see root nodes or tiny roots. Either way, return them to the soil. If they do not come out easily, they may have started growing tiny roots. Write in your notes the date you saw roots.  If you could no longer pull your cutting up, record that. Include how many cuttings formed roots.

10. Your cuttings should have substantial roots after several months. At this point you may plant them outside or in a larger pot. Be careful about introducing them to the sun too quickly. A few days outside in partial sun will help them adapt to more light and warmer temperatures. Plants can sunburn just like we can!

Rosemary_Final #1

Questions:

Imagine you were George Mason’s son John, and you just discovered a new kind of plant. As you examined the plant, you thought maybe you could make 2 or 3 good cuttings without harming the plant. Next, you decided to send pieces of it to several leading citizens, so they could help you make more of the rare plant.

 

  • How might you pack it to make sure it had enough water and air?

 

 

 

  • Who would you send your cuttings to?

 

 

 

  • Pick an important figure from the colonial period. Write a letter to that person describing where you found the plant, how the plant looked, and how you think people might use it.

 

 

The Founders as Gardeners

Many of our founders, like George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, George Mason, and James Madison, were Virginia landowners who sold crops from their huge estates. By selling cash crops from these plantations and by not paying most of their workers, these leaders and their families achieved immense wealth. They believed agriculture would be important in building our country’s future. They thought that they could help.  

Each of these founders felt that as a leader of Virginia (and later, the United States), it was their responsibility to share agricultural resources with other people. These resources often included new seeds or cuttings. New crops had the potential not only to provide food for American families, but also to yield surplus products for sale in American and European markets. Men such as George Mason  thought that successful farmers would be the type of citizens the United States needed to build a thriving democracy.

Elite Virginian landowners had the time and resources to think about experiments, propagation, and sharing seeds and cuttings largely because of work provided by enslaved, indentured, and paid servants. Less wealthy people   had less leisure time for such activities. Many Virginians needed to spend most of their time on the backbreaking work of everyday life.  

Advanced propagation from cuttings—grafting!

Many people in the 18th century were familiar with propagation by cuttings, but fewer people had the more advanced skills needed for grafting. When grafting, an horticulturist takes a cutting and merges it with another growing plant in order to combine the good traits of both plants. Fruit trees are often grafted. The top, or scion, is usually a tasty variety, and the bottom is a hardy root, often called the rootstock.

Grafting was common during the colonial period. For example, George Washington recorded in 1765 a substantial list of grafts, “Grafted 48 Pears. . .12 Spanish Pears. Next to these are 8 Early June Pears then 10 latter Burgamy—then 8 Black Pear of Worcester—and lastly 10 Early Burgamy. Note all these Pears came from Colo. Masons.” George Mason’s immense orchard planted by his tenant farmer Thomas Halbert likely utilized cutting propagation and grafting. The indenture contract (today we would call it a lease) from 1752 required, “an Orchard of two hundred Winter Apple Trees, at thirty feet Distance every Way from each other, and eight hundred Peach Trees, at fifteen Feet Distance every Way from each other. . .well trimmed, pruned, fenced in, and secured from Horses, Cattle, and other Creatures.” Colonists had many uses for fruit.  They could eat it fresh, dry it to eat in winter and early spring, and use it to make alcoholic beverages. As a result, they needed a lot of fruit trees. The high-level skills needed to make cuttings, graft, set-up and care for orchards and gardens were in high demand in eighteenth century Virginia. 

Many elite Virginian hired or indentured servants to manage their elaborate kitchen gardens and orchards. This skilled work gave gardeners and orchardists  higher status than some other laborers and allowed some of them to receive better living quarters, rations, pay, or even land at the end of contract. George Mason’s choice to use Thomas Halbert to set up an orchard was not unusual. We know George Washington hired or indentured five different gardeners at Mount Vernon. 

For paid servants and indentured servants, gardening provided a chance for upward mobility that was unavailable to the enslaved people working along side those indentured or paid servants. Gardening skills were portable, and free people who possessed them were likely to find it relatively easy to get work.  Working in a garden could offer some opportunity for enslaved people. People in bondage who gained gardening skills may have been able to use those abilities to supplement their own diets by creating kitchen gardens in the yards next to their dwellings.